Method of making flexible footwear



Sept. 14, 1954 J. A. RUBICO 2,688,758

METHOD OF MAKING FLEXIBLE FOOTWEAR Filed March 21, 1951 4 Sheets-Sheet 1- Sept. 14, 1954 J A, co 2,688,758

METHOD OF MAKING FLEXIBLE FOOTWEAR Filed March 21, 1951 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Sept. 14, 1954 J. A. RUBICO 2,688,758

METHOD OF MAKING FLEXIBLE FOOTWEAR Filed March 21, 1951 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Sept. 1 1 J. A. RUBICO METHOD OF MAKING FLEXIBLE FOOTWEAR 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed March 21, 1951 Patented Sept. 14, 1954 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD 10F MAKING FLEXIBLE FOOTWEAR Jerome A. Rubico, East Boston, Mass.

Application March 21, 1951, Serial No. 216,759

3 Claims. (Cl. 12-442) My present invention is directed to improvements in flexible footwear and the processes of making the same by various methods, as well as the novel and improved components utilized therein.

A prime important object of the invention is to produce flexible footwear in an expeditious and economical manner, with a decided saving in operations and materials ordinarily employed, and while utilizing standard machines and operations, certain of which operations can be performed by unskilled labor.

A further and important object of the invention is to eliminate the usual type of insole, thereby saving the expense of an insole and eliminating the rigidity and stiffness ordinarily resulting from the use of an insole.

A still further object is to provide a marginal U-shaped strip to which an upper can be lasted and attached thereto, said U-shaped strip being flat on the surface to be applied next to the last; and with the opposite surface prepared for last ing attachment of the upper either by cement, stampling, or stitching. Such a U-shaped strip I have designated as an insole element although it only extends around the marginal part of the shoe bottom-either the forepart only or entirely around the forepart and heel, if desired-the latter being more suitable for athletic footwear. Such insole element may, if desired, be made of a plurality of parts scarfed together for economy in the use of material and operations, or may be died-out of suitable material to constitute a U-shaped insole element. Such insole element may be also provided with a sewing rib for weltinseam attachment.

It is also an object of the present invention to provide a novel method of and apparatus for making such a U-shaped insole element when assembled from several parts or sections.

An additional object of the invention is to provide a novel hold-down plate to retain the U-shaped insole element in position on a last during the assembling of the upper and the lasting of the same, which plate may be hinged to the last, if desired, or may be separately applied; and in either case, is automatically removed from the inside of the completed shoe by the removal of the last itself.

A further object of the invention is to enable flexible footwear to be made by several difierent processes, such as by employing a single sole, or by utilizing a midsole to which an outsole is attached, or by using a welt-connected construction wherein-an inseam stitching attached a welt to a sewing rib and with a single outsole secured to the welt, all of these methods being performed without an insole.

The present invention also has for its object an improvement on the process and article of my prior and co-pending application Ser. No. 91,927 for Flexible Footwear, Method of Making and Novel Last Therefor, filed May 7, 1949 which has matured into Patent No. 2,584,084 granted January 29, 1952; and the present invention also includes an improvement in my Pat. No. 2,528,082 on Last dated October 31, 1950. The said copending application was mainly directed to the making of flexible footwear utilizing certain turned-shoe steps and methods to provide a single-soled boot or shoe but eliminating the turning operation as well as other numerous operations.

In my said Last patent I employed a grooved or cut-out last in which a flanged insole element was fitted and secured in the grooves of the last; but in my present invention I have overcome the difiiculties incident to such a flanged element and grooved last; and I have discovered that an ungrooved standard last, together with an unflanged insole element which has a flat surface to lay in contact with the last bottom, can be employed to make my single-soled flexible footwear construction.

In carrying out my present invention, I form a u-shaped insole element, as will be explained, either as a single piece or as a plurality of parts in the proper contour to fit a last on which it is to be assembled and temporarily secure a binder to the U-shaped element, such as a strip or strips of paper extending crosswise of the insole element, which binder and element are detachably secured by temporary adhesive, staples, or the like. The insole element is assembled on the last and held in position by a clamping plate engaging the binder, and after the completion of the shoe, the removal of the last with the clamping plate still in position on the binder will automatically remove the binder, or it may even tear the edges from under the insole element if the adhesive or staples do not always release the same.

Referring to the drawings illustrating preferred methods and constructions:

Fig. 1 is a plan view showing the assembling of an insole element made up of several parts including a heel piece or tuck and cross-binder assembled in a form;

of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the insole element, cross-binder and heel tuck assembled on a last;

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of upper materials lasted onto the insole element and heel tuck, with a clamp engaging the binder;

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view on the line Iifi of Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view of the completed single-soled shoe of Figs. 5 and 6 after the last is withdrawn;

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view after the last is withdrawn of a shoe as shown in Figs. 5 and 6 with the midsole and an outsole attached thereto by marginal outsole stitching;

Fig. 9 is a View of a last bottom with a detachable clamp tacked over the binder;

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic view of assembling the insole element, heel tuck, and cross-binder before they are united in the form of Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 11 is a diagrammatic view, partly in crosssection, of my completed shoe with a yielding arch-supporting pad applied thereto and with the sock-lining partly broken away;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of my novel insole element provided with a, sewing rib attached to the cross-binder and heel tuck, and assembled on a last with a hinged hold-down plate engaging the cross-binder and overlapping slightly the inner margin of the insole element;

Fig. 13 is a View of an upper lasted thereon and stapled thereto, with a hinged plate in clamped position;

Fig. 14 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view on an enlarged scale illustrating the welt-attaching to the ribbed insole element, and

Fig. 15 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view of the completed single-soled welt-attached flexible footwear in accordance with my invention.

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view illustrating additional through-and-through stitching on the shoe construction on Figs. 7 and 8.

In the construction of my insole element and cross-binder, I prefer to utilize a plurality of sections which are variable from narrow strips of material-preferably leather-and can be made of sk-ivings or otherwise waste leather and,

therefore, at a trifling expense for such material, although a plain U-shaped insole element can be died-out if desired.

In preferred form and as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, I form the insole element by assembling side strips I and 2 of suitable width, thickness, strength, and contour, uniting them at a scarfed joint 3 at the toe portion, and similarly unite the same to a heel piece or tuck 5 by scarving the rear ends 4 of the side piece I and those of the side piece 2 into the assembled position illustrated in Figs. 1, 3, and 9.

For this purpose I provide a form III with a central opening therein of proper contour into which the parts may be quickly assembled and attached to the cross binder l2, here shown as a thin sheet of paper, although it may be any cross strip if desired. Such a form may be either for a right or left shoe, and by reversing a single form it is operable for both right and left alternately; or, if desired, a pair of right and left contours can be made in a single fonm of appropriate width.

The cross-binder I2 is preferably coated with a non-permanent adhesive from the marginal edge inwardly to approximately equal to the width of the insole element as indicated at the broken-away part of the insole element, Fig. 1, which width may be pre-stamped if desired; but the operator can accurately align the parts I and 2 by simply fitting them against the Walls of the central opening 9 within the form I 0. The insole element and cross-binder and heel tuck being then united, are thus assembled on a last bottom and the marginal surface of the insole element coated with cement, if cement-lasting is to be employed.

I contemplate the utilization of an ordinary standard type of last for this purpose and may apply a hold-down plate I5 across the binder l2, as shown in Fig. 9, one or more tacks I6 and I! holding the binder in place and, hence, the insole element, as well as the heel tuck, which would have a separate tack I8, retaining same in alignment.

If desired, I may apply to the last 2.0, see Fig. 4, a hold-down plate 2| hinged to the end of the forepart adjacent the line of cut between fore and heel part I9 in a typical hinged last, and as shown in Figs. 3 and l, curling the rear end of the hold-down plate 2| around the cross-bar of a staple 22, as illustrated at 23, to. thus form a hinge.

To facilitate the assembly of the binder and attached insole element and heel tuck over a hinged hold-down plate as just described, I provide the binder with a notched or open portion 13, as indicated in Figs. 1 and 10, leaving a space between the notch I3 and the heel breast end I of the heel tuck. Thus the hold-down plate 2| can be slipped thru this notch in assembling the insole element and attached binder on the last, and thereupon the hold-down plate 2| is folded downwardly in contact on the cross binder. If desired, I may attach a snap fastener 25 in the forward part of the last, fitted in a recess 26 and suitable to be released by pushing a nail or other implement thru an opening 21 in said holddown plate 2| in alignment therewith, as will be clearly understood. Although I have illustrated a hinged type of last, it will be appreciated that I may employ any construction of last as may be desired and may apply the hold-down plate 2|, staple 22 hinged at 23-, to any portion of the forepart.

Where the separate hold-down I5, see Fig. 9, is simply tacked on the bottom of the last, no snap fastener or the like is necessary. Such hold-down plates I5 or 2I may be of any suitable material, preferably thin metal, clamping the cross-binder IE to the last, and when the last is Withdrawn the hold-down plate is still in holding contact onto the binder I2 and will withdraw the binder with the withdrawal of the last, thus leaving the interior of the now-completed shoe without. the cross-binder.

With the parts thus assembled, if cement-last.- ing is to be relied upon I then coat the outer surfaces of a U-shaped insole element with adhesive, as indicated at 3|, Fig. 5, as well as the. margin of the heel tuck unless the latter is to rely on the usual heel-nailing operation, and last the upper materials 3Ilusually comprising the upper and lining-tome insole element as shown in Figs. 5 and 6.

I have illustrated in Fig. 7 a single sole 33 applied to the lasted shoe bottom of Fig. 5 and in permanent cemented assembly to'the upper mate.- rials and U-shaped insole element the. last having been withdrawn and a sock lining being applied.

In Fig. 8 I have illustrated the use of a midsole attached to the lasted shoe bottom of Figs. 5 and 6 by permanent adhesive, to which an outsole 4| is secured by marginal outsole stitching 44, and after the last is withdrawn a sock lining is applied, thus completing the shoe. In the constructions as illustrated in Figs. '7 and 8 I may apply thru-and-thru stitching after the last is withdrawn and before the sock lining is applied, as illustrated at 36, Fig. 16, to give added strength, particularly for athletic footwear, which stitching may be extended entirely around both forepart and heel part if desired. If the midsole is thus stitched, the shoe is re-lasted to attach the outsole 4|.

As the insole elements I and 2 in most designs of footwear bridge each other at the shank portion, see Fig. 11, I prefer to apply to this part of the shoe after the last is withdrawn and before the sock lining 35 of Fig. 7, and Fig. 8 is applied, a special form of yielding arch support 46, as shown in Fig. 11, where the sock lining 45 is cut away, with the insole elements I and 2 and the adjacent heel breast of the heel tuck forming a natural pocket at this part of the arch of the shoe, and the fitting of the heel pad 35 therein is readily effected, preferably by adhesive, and a complete self-functioning arch-supporting feature obtained, when the shoe is flexed.

In Figs. 12, 13, 14, and 15 I have illustrated my flexible footwear and method of making, wherein an inseam sewing rib and welt-connected construction can be advantageously employed. For this purpose, I form the insole elements with the flanges 5| and 52 and with an upstanding sewing rib 55. Also, such rib may be formed in the usual channeled and turned-up construction in Goodyear welt processes, or the rib may be secured to the insole elements as in the well known Eno Process; or stitched thereto by the well known Poole Process; or the insole element and sewing rib may be formed integral of synthetic plastic material by the well known Wright Process. the sewing rib is around the margin of the forepart to which the upper materials 30 are lasted and secured by staples, lasting tacks or otherwise, whereupon the welt is attached by inseam stitching 6! While they are assembled on the last, with the cross-binder l2 in position and held down by the hold-down plate 2|. While I have illustrated the insole element as a strip around the contour of the forepart, it will be appreciated that I may extend the same entirely around the heel also, thus forming two U-shaped elements united near the shank. This latter construction is especially suitable for athletic footwear.

The marginal part of the clamp 2| may, if desired, overlap very slightly or pressed against the inner edge of the flange 52 of the insole element with the sewing rib thereon. But this is only a slight extension and when the last and hold-down plate 2| are withdrawn, said hold-down plate would naturally slip off the insole element which is already attached to the welt 60 and is secured to the outsole by outsole stitching 66, as illustrated in Fig. 15, the top of the sewing rib 55 and attached marginal portions of the upper 38 having first been trimmed off, as is usual, and a filler 64 applied.

The binder l2 holding the U-shaped insole element of strip material may be and preferably is a thin sheet of paper, or the like, but I may also In any case,

til

utilize a plurality of narrow strips as cross-bind ers.

In the form shown in Figs. l2, 13, 14, and 15, wherein a sewing rib is incorporated in an insole element, the same is capable of being reinforced or gemmed by a strip of canvas of corresponding width, as is at present standard practice in the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes, or with full width Gemming, as desired.

I have discovered that by making the binder 2 I, of treated paper, such for example as glycerineimpregnated paper, that the non-permanent adhesive holding the insole elements thereto is readily released when the last is withdrawn, and such treated paper can be used repeatedly as the binder.

The insole strip elements I and 2 are preferably skived slightly toward their inner edges to facilitate the laying of the sock lining after the shoe is otherwise completed. The resultant flexible footwear, with the forepart entirely free of the crossbinder, eliminating the rigid efiect of the former usual insole employed, also eliminates the former difficulty of gu-ttering, thus presenting a fully flexible as well as gutterless footwear construction.

I claim:

1. That improvement in the art of making flexible footwear which consists in detachably uniting by cement an insole element and a binder, said binder being substantially equal in area and contour to the last forepart bottom on which the shoe is to be made, temporarily securing the hinder and insole element to a last by clamping means on the binder free of engagement with said element, assembling an upper and lasting the same to said element, permanently securing a sole to said element, completing the shoe and thereupon withdrawing the last with the binder and clamping means attached to the last, and simultaneously detaching the insole element along said detachable union with the binder.

2. That improvement in the art of making flexible footwear which consists in detachably uniting, by cement, a relatively narrow insole element along the outer marginal portion of a binder, said binder being substantially equal in area and contour to the last bottom on which the shoe is to be made, temporarily securing the binder and insole element to a last by clamping means on the binder free of holding engagement with said element, assembling an upper and lasting the same to said element, permanently securing a midsole thereto having an area extending beyond the margin of the lasted upper, securing an outsole to the extended margin of said midsole by Goodyear stitching and withdrawing the last, automatically separating the insole element along the detachable union with the binder.

3. That improvement in the art of making flexible welt-connected footwear which consists in detachably uniting, by cement, a relatively narrow U-shaped insole element having a sewing rib on one surface, and a binder, said binder being substantially equal in area and contour to the last bottom on which the shoe is to be made, temporarily securing the binder and insole element to a last by clamping means on the binder free of holding engagement with said element, assembling an upper and lasting the same to said element, permanently securing a welt by inseam stitching to said sewing rib, applying filling material and an outsole, permanently uniting said welt and outsole, and thereupon withdrawing the 7. last, thus automatically removing the binder Number while held to the last by said clamping means. 2,144,330 2,216,159 References Cited in the file of this patent 2,291,799 UNITED STATES PATENTS 5 23 3 Number Name Date 8 1,749,900 Bresnahan Mar. 11, 1930 1,885,574 Bain NOV. I, 93 Number 2,048,048 Ayers July 2 19 6 10 443,895- 2,069,864 Valentine Feb. 9',v 1937 I 8. Name Date Farrington Jan. 17, 1939 Cuozzo Oct. 1, 1940 Discenza, Aug. 4', 1942 Friend Dec. 19, 1944 Rubico Oct. 31, 1950 FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date Germany May 9, 1927 

